Questions You Should Know about Hydraulic Threading Machine

When selecting a fitting for your hydraulic system pay attention to the following factors:

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Pressure requirements: Fittings are rated for the maximum operating pressure they can withstand. Using a fitting that doesn’t match the pressure that is going to be used in the system will result in fitting failure.

Fluid compatibility: Knowing what type of fluid you are going to run in your system is necessary for optimal performance and durability. Some fluids are not compatible with the fitting material and will cause premature corrosion.

Environmental conditions: Some fitting materials, like stainless steel, have better corrosion protection than others. If your system is consistently being operated in a wet, salty environment, make sure your fittings will withstand those harsh conditions.

System design conditions: The wrong fitting orientation and size can cause your system to heat up faster and higher than designed, potentially causing failure of system components. Selecting fittings that promote a smooth, laminar fluid flow helps protect the hydraulic system.

Vibration and shock: Over time, vibration and shock can cause fittings to loosen up and result in leaks. When picking a fitting, consider the fitting’s function within the system and choose one that is isn’t susceptible to loosening while the machine is running.

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Thread type and sealing mechanism: Before purchasing any fittings, it’s crucial to know the thread size of ports in hydraulic components. Using two fittings with unmatched thread size and pitch will result in a leak, or system failure. Make sure the thread sizes match so that the fitting will tighten properly.

The first step is to determine the type of fitting you currently are using in your system or the type of fitting that will work best for your system. The following section will explain how to recognize a hydraulic fitting and what applications it is best used for. One of the biggest obstacles is figuring out what type and size of fitting you are currently using on your system. A set of Fitting Gauges is a helpful tool to have to be able to determine the size and thread pitch of your current fittings.

The ORB (O-ring Boss) fitting is also an extremely common type of hydraulic fitting. The female side has a flat shoulder cut above the threads that mates with the O-ring that is placed around the underside of the nut.

When the fitting is tightened, the O-ring is forced against the boss and provides a leak free connection. This fitting is excellent for medium to high pressure applications with a working pressure rating from 0- psi depending on size. This fitting is not good in high temperature applications because of the location of the O-ring. The O-ring can be cut during improper installation which will cause a leak.

The NPT (National Pipe Tapered) fitting is the traditional hydraulic fitting of choice. With advances in fitting technology, it has become a less-than-ideal fitting in most applications. The threads of an NPT fitting are tapered making the male and female parts an interference fit. This is what creates the sealing surface of the fitting.

This fitting requires a sealing substance to ensure it won’t leak. We suggest using Loctite 545. Teflon tape shouldn’t be used with this type of fitting. Small pieces of Teflon can break off and enter the system clogging small orifices. NPT fittings are commonly found on low pressure parts of hydraulic systems, especially coming out of a reservoir. The pressure rating for an NPT fitting is from 0- psi. Overtightening can cause cracking in the fitting and will cause a leak in the system.

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My Shibaura SDD has a Vteks A2 Front End Loader. I believe this is an aftermarket product from Vietnam. I've had this machine for about 7 years, and it has served me well, but finding info on it has been difficult. Cylinder work has been expensive, because I can't easily buy replacements off the shelf. The hydraulic control mechanism is sticky and slow. Without documentation, I reluctant to tear into it.

The hydraulic guys I've been dealing with are good, but they are very proud of their work. Any of you folks have familiarity with this gear? Are these parts plug and play so that I can just swap the old ones out? I'm concerned that if the hydraulic pump fails, I'll be toast.

Finally - sometimes, if I push the bucket down, I can hear that the fan blades are coming into contact with the radiator shroud. I probably need to tighten things up, but it seems like this may be torquing the whole machine - and that can't be good.

I understand better than before, but I'm still ignorant here. I welcome any council offered.

Thanks So Much -
Bob I very much appreciate your comment.

I resealed the 3pt hitch lift cylinder which was very simple.

As for the rest of the hydraulics - the front end loader has 4 double acting cylinders, and the 3pt backhoe I have has 8 double acting and two single acting cylinders. I've had several of these rebuilt by one of the local hydraulic shops. For the most part, this wasn't too painful, but one cylinder on the FEL had been customized by the manufacturer. One end had a welded mount to attach to the tractor. There was also rigid metal tubing to keep flexible hoses away from mechanical joints. When I took it to be resealed, the shop called and said the inside of the barrel was scored and it was not rebuildable. Ultimately, the shop cut up my part, replaced the barrel, and effectively built me a replacement cylinder. I'm happy to have it but it cost 3 or 4 times what a generic cylinder would have cost.

Mind you - I'm not complaining - I'm happy to have the machine. Before I got it, it had some weather exposure. The rods on the backhoe cylinders were badly damaged. This was another large expense, but given what I paid for it, I'm still way ahead.

For the tractor, the backhoe, and a rotary tiller together, I paid $. I use it a couple of times a week since then. I've put some money into it but I'm still way ahead - at least until I have a hydraulic pump failure.

I did find a steering pitman in a tractor salvage yard. I've done some basic engine work, and I think those parts are available if you know another machine that used them. If the hydraulic pump fails, I think it's game over. The pump is forward of the operators left foot.

I believe the large grey tank below the exhaust manifold is the screen / filter for the hydraulic oil. I've never cleaned this and don't know how you'd get to it. I speculate that the business bits on the left side of the image are the drive mechanism and that the pump is the middle bit between that and the metal return line. I can't imagine finding a generic replacement but I think this machine had common parts with Ford, NewHolland, and Yanmar.

I've had the impression that this machine was from around , but I'm not sure where I got that idea or how I'd be able to tell.

The second photo is of the hydraulic control valves. This thing is getting a bit cantankerous - sometimes sticky. Slow for things to start happening. I'm pretty handy but never done hydraulic work. I've thought about tearing it down and trying to replace seals and O-rings, but I can imagine little springs, clips, ball bearings, etc. inside, and that it might be like trying to reassemble a clock.