10 Things to Consider When Buying small size solar panels

A lot of people ultimately decide to go solar because the math works out over the long term. But to figure that out, you must first determine what your system should cost up front.

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The answer to that question: It's complicated, and it depends.

When Larry Gawel and his wife installed solar at their Lincoln, Nebraska, home in , the system cost about $18,000. The system has since provided for almost all their electrical needs, including heating and cooling. Recently their retirement planner asked for a summary of their utility bills and assumed that the figure they gave him was per month. 'I told him no, that's an entire year,' Gawel said.

At the other end of the range is the Central Florida home of Erik Erickson, Wirecutter's director of platform engineering. To manage hurricane threats and routine power outages, Erik has specced out a slightly oversize solar array coupled to four backup batteries. Capable of powering the home if the grid goes down for a week or more, the system will come in at about $68,000.

The average price falls somewhere in between. The median price of a US residential solar installation was $4.20 per watt in (down from $14 in ), and such a system produced 7.2 kilowatts, according to a report from the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory (PDF). (That number skews low because California installs the most residential systems, but they're relatively small; other states average above 8 kilowatts.) That works out to a total cost of about $30,240.

EnergySage, a 'solar matchmaker' whose expertise we've highlighted before, has a detailed chart of state-by-state average costs that may give you a rough idea of what to expect for your home. Just be aware that the results shown there are limited to an average system size installed in that state, which may not match your own needs, and the figures are lower by about 25% than the numbers in the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory report. In part, this is because EnergySage factors in savings that you can get only if you use EnergySage to connect with contractors in your area.

The federal government will subsidize 30% of the cost of your solar project.

The Inflation Reduction Act of made several important changes to how federal solar tax credits work. For one, it extended the credit for years, until ; it also raised the rebate to 30% of the total cost of installation until , after which it tails off to 26% and 22% the next two years.

There's no cap to the cost, either'whether you pay $10,000 or $100,000 for your solar project, you get the full value of the credit.

In a sense, that may be all that you as a homeowner need to know. You have a long window in which to decide whether to go solar, where you can be confident of writing off 30% of the total cost. Your up-front costs will be reduced by almost a third, and you'll recoup your investment that much faster.

Significantly, you can spread the credit across as many as the next five years of tax returns. This option is designed to maximize the credit's benefits, since not every household will owe 30% of their project cost in taxes in the year of installation.

The Inflation Reduction Act also improves certainty and long-term planning in the solar industry itself, said Joe Lipari, vice president of projects at Brooklyn SolarWorks. 'We always joke and call it the 'solar coaster' because so much of it is really influenced by political whims,' he said. 'What the IRA did was provide certainty that this is an incentive that's going to be here to stay' We're so accustomed to, 'It's going to expire next year. Sign up now. Get it while you can. It's never going to get better.' It changes the mindset.'

And that should help smaller, customer-oriented local solar contractors'such as Brooklyn SolarWorks'stick around.

We strongly recommend working with such a contractor, versus a large national firm whose business model, as detailed by Alana Semuels in Time, prioritizes sales over service. (In Semuels's words, 'National solar companies essentially became finance companies that happened to sell solar.') Tellingly, the first of the '40 Questions to Ask an Installer' suggested by the nonprofit American Solar Energy Society are 'What year was your company established?' and 'Where are its offices?'

Many states, municipalities, and utilities have their own incentive programs that will further reduce your costs, often significantly. For example, Wirecutter editor-in-chief Ben Frumin got an additional 19% of his solar installation subsidized by New York programs.

DSIRE, the Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency, makes it easy to find programs in your area using just your zip code. California, Minnesota, New York, and Texas have more than 100, and most states have at least several dozen. You still have to read through the descriptions of the individual programs to find those that apply to you (some have qualifying restrictions, such as income level), but having all of them gathered in one place for research purposes is a big help.

Any contractors you speak with should also be familiar with the programs you likely qualify for'after all, it's in their own self-interest to help bring you to the decision to go solar'and if they are not, consider that a warning flag. Confirm that the contractors are authorized to submit proof-of-work statements to the utilities and agencies that handle the incentive programs, as well, since you'll need that for your claims.

Installers may offer rates that are lower than banks' too, which will lower your monthly payments, though likely not your total outlay.

'We try to make sure that we are very transparent with the customers as to what that looks like,' said J.W. Peters, co-founder of Solar Power of Oklahoma, one of the state's oldest installers. 'We have some options that are a 25-year loan at a 4.9% interest. But that loan product actually costs us more money to be able to offer to that homeowner. And so therefore, our cost estimate adjusts our baseline costs to adjust for that as well.'

You may find that it makes sense to put up some of the payment in cash. Wirecutter's Erik Erickson carefully considered his options when working out the cost for his system. Eliminating his family's monthly $415 electricity bill was a top priority, and 'basically I'm getting down to $415 a month [in finance payments] if I put $7,000 down on top,' he said, 'which is a chunk of change and was one of the biggest reasons I took a month to deliberate, because this doesn't pencil out without extra money down.'

In the long run, it almost certainly will.

The tax credit is effectively a direct price cut on the cost of going solar. But solar installations also generally pay for themselves over time, through a combination of lowering your electricity bills and a process known as net metering.

Unless you plan to install storage batteries, even after going solar you'll use power from the electrical grid at night, when your solar panels are producing nothing. And in high-demand periods'often summer or winter, when you're cooling or heating your home, respectively'you may draw some electricity from the grid during the daytime, too.

Usually, you'll still get a bill from your utility every month.

But much of the time, your system will produce more electricity than you need'weekdays when nobody is at home, for example, or shoulder months like March or April, when your area has a ton of sunlight and you're not blasting your electricity-sucking air conditioner.

That excess power will go back onto the grid for other customers to use, and your utility will give you credit for the value of that power on your next billing cycle. That's net metering, and with a well-designed system it means you'll wind up paying very little for your electricity over the course of a year.

Over time, the money you save will more than cover the cost of the system and any loan interest.

However, it's important to know how your utility calculates net metering, because that's key to figuring out how fast you'll see a return on your solar investment.

Knowing who provides your power and how the utility's net metering works will make you a shrewder judge of contractors when you're seeking bids.

Who provides the home's electricity is one of the first questions Solar Power of Oklahoma's J.W. Peters asks of prospective customers. Like most states, Peters explained, Oklahoma is served by a mix of publicly owned utilities, municipally owned utilities, and member-owned cooperatives. They use different net metering rates and credit structures'and some don't offer net metering, period.

'We need to know who they have so I can figure that into the calculations,' Peters said. 'We've seen a lot of kind [of] fly-by-night, door-to-door-salesman-type people coming in and knocking on doors in neighborhoods that know nothing about the utility structure in that area. They're selling people systems, and in some cases even installing them, under false pretenses of what that system will do for those customers.' In the worst cases, he said, people have had solar installed, only to learn that they are not allowed to connect to the grid at all'so when the sun goes down, their home doesn't have electricity.

Tom Broderick of Flagstaff, Arizona, talked to four installers when he was going solar in . 'One of them knew what he was talking about'one,' he said. 'Some of them said some really dumb things, and I didn't call them on it, because I wanted to give them the opportunity to say more dumb things and find out what they really knew and what they really didn't.'

Think like him. Understand your utility's net metering program before seeking bids, and as Broderick emphasized, 'Look at multiple installers. Get references. Check their business record with the Better Business Bureau. How long have they been in business? Are they certified?' Ideally that would mean certified by NABCEP, the North American Board of Certified Energy Practitioners.

Anyone researching this topic has likely stumbled upon some free online cost estimators, such as EnergySage's tool.

Through that estimator, EnergySage calculates your potential lifetime savings from going solar based on your address and current monthly electricity bills, after which it solicits free bids from licensed and vetted solar contractors.

Another estimator, the National Renewable Energy Laboratory's PVWatts, calculates your potential solar-energy production based on your address and roof size.

There's also DSIRE, the Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency, which lists potential sources of low-interest loans, rebates, and other incentives for going solar based on your zip code.

Such cost estimators certainly help. But the reality is that to truly get a sense of the cost and value, you have to decide what you want solar to do for you'what you value most among the many benefits it can bring'and then work within your means to get a system that meets your needs.

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Absolutely.

You can do a lot of things to lower your energy bills and carbon footprint that, happily, cost much less than a solar installation.

Consider community solar. You effectively pay for panels that are installed at a solar-production facility. They supply electricity to the grid at large, and you get a credit on your energy bill, much as you would with a system you installed at your house, but the household disruption and soft costs are eliminated.

Community solar is expanding rapidly, with annual growth more than doubling nationwide every year since . 'Community solar has been a major driver of opening market access for folks, particularly people for whom residential solar isn't financially or logistically feasible,' said Gilbert Michaud, assistant professor of environmental policy at Loyola University Chicago and policy division chair of the American Solar Energy Society.

At the end of , the baseline year of the most recent National Renewable Energy Laboratory report (PDF), community solar facilities totalling more than 6 gigawatts of capacity had been installed in 43 states and Washington, DC, with a third of that capacity installed in alone.

However, the distribution of community solar is uneven, with four states'Florida, New York, Minnesota, and Massachusetts'accounting for 75% of it (in terms of wattage) and the top 10 states accounting for more than 90%. Depending on where you live, you may have to do some legwork to find a local project to invest in.

Finally, and for older homes especially, relatively inexpensive upgrades to things like insulation and weather sealing can lower utility bills substantially. We cover many of the options in detail in our guide to home weatherizing. And Michaud pointed out that they too are supported by the Inflation Reduction Act'as part of the $8.8 billion Home Energy Rebates program'and by many state and local programs as well.

When I spoke with Iain Walker of Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory in , he brought up a way of thinking about green technology that stuck with me.

There are dollar savings to consider, he said, and there are carbon savings'and sometimes the two don't quite add up. A new induction stove would cost him considerably more in electricity each month than his old stove would cost him in gas, he said by way of an example. But its carbon footprint would be much lower, and that in itself is valuable to him.

Homeowner Tom Broderick told us, '[My] motivation is mainly climate change and doing something about it at my personal level,' but 'it did matter that through my retirement, my costs would be lower for electricity.'

Homeowner Larry Gawel is pleased that he's saving money and emissions at the same time: 'Both of them are important to me.'

Wirecutter's Erik Erickson plans to add an EV charger (and an EV) to his system, but 'in a few years, after this is all through, because this is the most expensive project we've ever done.'

For homeowner Tom Lee, the initial decision to go solar'in Los Angeles, back in 'was basically a dollars-and-cents matter. He was already doing a major home renovation, so it was a sensible time to get the installation done. The system was not cheap, at around $60,000, but 'this house was going to be my forever house, so I figured it's a good idea, right?' he said. 'Especially with all this money coming back to me [from rebates and utility savings].'

But as time and technology moved forward 15 years, so did his appreciation for what he'd done. 'I feel proud that I'm a solar owner,' he said.

This article was edited by Harry Sawyers and Ben Frumin.

If you're looking to switch to solar, you may wonder if you have enough space to install the panels. This is a valid concern - solar panels are pretty big! Most home solar panels are about 5.5 feet x 3 feet and weigh roughly 40 pounds each.

Most of the time, you won't see the size of solar panels expressed in feet. Instead, you'll see it's listed as the number of solar cells within a panel, with the most common solar panel sizes being 60-cell and 72-cell.

Let's take a closer look at the difference between these solar panel sizes and how to pick the right one for your home.

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How to measure solar panel size

When you look at a solar panel, you'll see it's made up of small squares. Those squares are called solar cells, and they're the part of the panels that turn sunlight into electricity.

You'll see the size of a solar panel described by how many cells it has. 60-cell panels are usually laid out in a 6 by 10 grid and are the most popular option for home solar installations. You'll typically find that 60-cell solar panels have output ratings between 350 and 400 watts and efficiency ratings between 17% and 19%.

72-cell panels, on the other hand, are usually arranged in a 6-cell by 12-cell grid. Because 72-cell panels hold more cells, they are bigger and can produce more solar power, making them popular for commercial installations. 72-cell panel wattage usually sits around 415 to 450 watts, but they can get into the 460-watt range. Their efficiency ratings are typically between 18% and 21%.

Solar panel dimensions and weight

Many people want to know the physical size of solar panels, not just how many cells the hold. The average 60-cell solar panel is about 65 inches by 39 inches, or 5.4 feet by 3.25 feet, and weighs around 40 to 50 pounds. The actual dimensions will vary from panel to panel, so we've listed a few for some of the most popular 60-cell panels on the market:

72-cell panels are larger, about 80 inches by 40 inches and about 1.5 inches tall. This works out to just about 6.5 feet by 3 feet for 72 cell panels, give or take a few inches. 72-cell modules generally weigh around 50 pounds. Here are the dimensions for 72-cell panels offered by top brands:

Pros and cons of 60-cell and 72-cell solar panels

Here's a brief breakdown of the pros and cons of each panel size.

How big are portable solar panels?

Once solar panels are installed on your roof, you don't have to think much about their size anymore. 

But, with portable off-grid panels, solar panel size is one of the most important things to consider. Your RV might only have a small amount of roof space, or you might want something you can carry around and set up outside your campsite!

Because portable solar panels are made for travel, they tend to be smaller and have about 40 cells as opposed to 60. 200-watt portable panels are around 5 feet by 2 feet. 

You could also opt for flexible solar panels, which also measure about 5 feet by 2 feet. But flexible panels can bend and are much thinner than crystalline panels, so they're easier for storage.

The flexible panel sold by Renogy, a popular portable solar brand, has 72 cells, but they're smaller than the ones used in typical commercial panels. The panel is also substantially lighter, weighing just 10.8 pounds!

Folding solar panel kits are also an option for portable use. Foldable panels can be small enough to fit in your backpack, or large enough to power your RV - there's a wide range of options out there.

Factors that are more important than solar panel size

There are many factors that you should consider before the size of your solar panels, like solar panel efficiency and solar panel warranties. 

Solar panel efficiency

Solar panel efficiency is the percentage of light that strikes the surface of a panel that is converted into usable electricity. Modern solar panels have efficiencies that range from around 17% up to 22.8% in some premium models.

Highly efficient panels take up less space, which will allow you to fit more panels on your roof.

Solar panel warranties

There are two types of warranties that cover solar panels.

The first is the product warranty. This is the period during which you can ask the manufacturer to replace the solar panel should any problem arise. Nowadays, a product warranty of 12 years is standard, but more brands are starting to offer product warranties of 25 years.

The second type of warranty is a performance guarantee. Most mainstream panels have a 25-year production warranty, guaranteeing the panel will produce a certain level of output at every stage of the panel's life. From the date your panels are installed up until the 25-year mark, the minimum guaranteed output of your panels will gradually decrease.

You can expect an output of close to 100% for year one, gradually down to between 80 and 92 percent for year 25. This loss in output is technically known as solar panel degradation. Some solar panel manufacturers, such as Canadian Solar, even offer a 30-year performance warranty on certain panel models.

Find out if solar panels are worth it for your home

How to find the best solar panel size

The easiest way for homeowners to figure out the best solar panel size for their needs is to work with a dedicated solar installer. Solar installers will size your system based on your energy needs, coupled with your available roof space and the sunlight in your area. They can recommend a system size that can fit on your roof and reduce or eliminate your electric bill. 

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