900 LED Display : 8 Steps (with Pictures)

Next came the connectors between panels. I couldn't have any panel connectors on the front and I didn't want to use a draw latch on the back like the kind you see on watertight cases and such. With a draw latch only on the back, the panels would be pulled too tightly together in the back, creating a bowed effect to the whole display. This couldn't happen, so after some looking and a suggestion from the lady at the hardware store, I went with the tension latches. I used three latches per seam, so six in total. Now the issue was how to attach them to the panels. They came with screws of course, but these were way too long to use on 1/4" acrylic. After figuring out where to put them and trimming the internal spring to reduce the tension (I was afraid too much tension could break them off the acrylic), I drilled screw holes for the larger piece that contained the spring into the panel, just deep enough to not go all the way through the panel. I then used a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel to trim the screws so that they would not go through the acrylic panel. For the other piece of the latch, I had to build small blocks out of acrylic to attach them as they mount perpendicular to the panel. Using some acrylic cement and some scrap pieces of acrylic cut to fit the base of the smaller piece of the latch, these blocks were cemented in place on the back of the panel. I then drilled holes into these blocks and used screws, slightly trimmed this time, to attach the second piece to the adjacent panel. So far this mounting solution has worked, though after some handling it is possible that these mounting blocks may break off of the panels.

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Now that the panel was finished and working (code development was concurrent with board construction), it needed a stand, which was a simple collapsible design that is nice and compact for shipping. Using some scrap particle board that I had lying around, I simply leaned the panels against the edge of the table, figured it was a good viewing angle, and made some marks on the board. Each stand has four pieces, two legs and two braces. The spacing between the legs for the two smaller panels places them in between the 3rd and 4th LED strip from each side with 4 strips in between them, or about 6 1/2" (16.5cm). The spacing on the third stand is about 5" wider since that panel is about 5" wider than the other two. I used a simple mated-notch design to build the stands, wherein the legs and braces have corresponding notches, all cut to a depth of 1/2 the width of the brace. These notches line up when assembled, making the stand simple yet strong (I would recommend using something a bit stronger than particle board though). Once completed, the stands were given a coat of flat black enamel paint.

The last thing to build was the game controller. I started by placing the push buttons in a standard up/down/left/right diamond pattern. I then soldered a 6-pin, 90deg angled header to the board to allow for attaching the female RJ45 Pmod. +5V and GND will be coming directly from the Max32 through the RJ45 Pmods. One side of each of the four buttons is tied to the other four pins on the header, with pull down resistors for each button, attached between those same header pins and GND, as well. +5V is attached to the other side of each button. The signal back to the Max32 is driven to GND (logic LOW) by the pull-down resistor until the button is pressed, at which point the pin is driven to +5V (logic HIGH). This design is easily reversed if you want a logic LOW to trigger the code to do something. Once the board was all soldered together, the solder points on the bottom were a little sharp. I decided to make a bottom cover so I cut a piece of acrylic to the same size, sanded the edges of both top and bottom pieces, and screwed some metal standoffs between them. The controller is just the right size, large enough to fit in one hand but easy to use with only one hand.

An image of how each of the components are connected together is provided in this step.

Now it's time to take a look at the code, so I'll hand this I'ble off to JColvin91.

LED screens have established an incredible reputation in the market as one of the best and most advanced marketing tools offered today. People are more inclined to look at images and videos for marketing since the content is more instant and easier to digest. In fact, according to a study, over 59% of people are more inclined to be interested in a brand or product displayed on a screen. 

With LED screens becoming increasingly popular, it is understandable that you would want to take this opportunity and use it to your advantage too. From how to build LED screen to their maintenance, it’s understandable that you would want to learn more about this device. 

There are /many things to learn about when dealing with this device but it’s important to know the basics. And if you want to save some cash and control your LED screen better, building it might be a good option. Of course, you need to learn first how to build LED screen. And depending on the type of display you’re thinking of building, you also need a crash course on how to make flexible LED screen and how to make an RGB LED screen. 

Basic Steps How To Build LED Screen

LED display refers to a visual device powered by light-emitting diodes. They are then arranged in a way that can produce images just with the LED’s illumination. While the technology seems complex, you can build your LED screen. It’s possible if you know how to make LED display board at home. This way, you can save so much and escape from paying charges from manufacturers and vendors. 

To help you create your masterpiece, here is a simple step-by-step guide on how to build LED screen. 

Step 1: Gather The Materials You Will Need

The first step when building your LED screen is gathering all the components that you will need in the project. The materials can vary depending on your budget, requirements, and preferences. Just to give you a look at the basic items you need to look into, here are some that you will need. 

• LEDs: LED lamp beads are light-emitting diodes, which form LED modules with PCBs, plastic kits, PCBs, etc.

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1. Gather all the components in one location

Before starting to assemble the LED display, gather all components, materials, and tools you will use in one location to have a more convenient building. You can place them in an assembly line to make it more accessible. Preparing beforehand can help you save time and at the same time be more efficient in your build. 

2. Choose the right type of LED module

While you can also learn how to make LED display board circuit, there are LED modules readily available that you can use. Indoor LED modules are different from outdoor LED modules so take that into account when choosing the right type of LED module. The former has a regular brightness while the latter needs to have high brightness to operate under direct sunlight. 

Another factor to consider when choosing an LED module is the size of your LED display. This will tell how many LED modules you will need for your project. 

3. Make sure to order spare parts

Another practical tip to follow when learning how to build LED screen is to always order spare parts. While you don’t want to hope that the items you ordered have been damaged, you don’t know what may happen so it’s best to be safe. Some of the LED panel modules may have issues or some cables are not working. 

Conclusion

If you want to learn how to build LED screen, start with the basics. Be familiar with the step-by-step guide that goes with creating an LED display. Make sure to apply some practical tips that can help you be more economical and efficient when doing this project. Bear in mind though that you don’t have to force yourself to create one if you don’t want to deal with all the technical aspects that come with it. You can also ask for the help of experts and purchase a ready-made LED display to avoid wasting time.

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